【Magome-juku】 A Nostalgic World Like Stepping Back in Time

A Must-Do Hike When Visiting Magome!

During the Edo period, Nakasendo was as bustling as the Tokaido route, with many travelers passing through. Among these historical paths, the segment between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku still preserves the ambiance of the past and is maintained today as the Shinano Route Nature Trail on the old Nakasendo.

Currently, there is a hiking trail stretching about 9 kilometers (approximately 3 hours’ walking time) connecting Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku (from Magome-juku to Magome Pass to Tsumago-juku).

At Magome Pass, located at an elevation of 790 meters between the two post towns, stands a monument bearing the haiku by Masaoka Shiki, who traveled the Nakasendo at the age of 25 in 1891: “White clouds and green leaves, young leaves across thirty ri.”

Midway between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku is the Edo-period building “Ishi Tochitatebashitei.” Here, visitors can step inside to rest and enjoy tea while soaking in the atmosphere of the Edo period.

The “Male Waterfall” and “Female Waterfall,” reputed to have been training spots for the legendary samurai Miyamoto Musashi, offer dramatic sights. The Male Waterfall, a branch waterfall of the Kiso River’s Otaru River, boasts a drop of 10 meters. The Female Waterfall has a 12-meter drop and features a two-tiered cascade that spectacularly sprays mist.

The historic stone-paved road of Tsumago, filled with a serene atmosphere, invites visitors to stroll and reflect on the people who walked these paths long ago. It’s also a perfect photo spot, ensuring memorable snapshots.

Each location offers a chance to immerse yourself in history and nature, allowing for a leisurely escape from daily life. Be sure to check the official website for hiking tips, recommended attire, weather conditions, and more before your visit.

Magome is a Foodie’s Paradise!

Another charm of Magome-juku is undoubtedly the gourmet experience! The delicacies enjoyed in the atmospheric, historical streetscape are exceptional, featuring Gifu’s famous gohei-mochi and kuri kowameshi, among others. There are also many take-out shops where you can enjoy street food!

Gohei-mochi, traditionally eaten during festivals and other special occasions since the mid-Edo period when rice was scarce, can be enjoyed while strolling through Magome-juku.

Additionally, you can savor the perfect combination of sticky rice and sweet, fluffy chestnuts in the local specialty “kuri kowameshi.” The area also boasts restaurants serving local dishes like soba and oyaki, as well as cuisine rich in mountain delights, cozy cafés perfect for taking breaks during your stroll, and much more. With so many gourmet spots in Magome, you might find it hard to choose!

Experience Magome’s History and Culture through Sightseeing, Experiences, and Shopping

Famous for the opening line “All the roads of Kiso are within the mountains,” from “Before the Dawn,” its author Shozo Shimazaki was born in Magome. The village hosts Shimazaki Toson’s memorial hall, museum, and the Bodhisattva Temple, offering opportunities for tours and experiences.

The Toson Memorial Hall, a museum tracing the life and works of the literary giant, holds a myriad of Toson-related materials and stands symbolically in the heart of Magome-juku—a must-visit location. Notably, the site of Shimazaki Toson’s residence (the main quarters of Magome-juku) is recognized as a Japanese heritage site. It served as a lodging for daimyo, shogunate officials, and imperial court members during their travels and is the setting for “Before the Dawn.” The courtyard still features the foundation stones of the main quarters and the remains of the storeroom and retirement quarters, allowing visitors to reminisce about the past. Behind the museum, you can see the forest of the Shimazaki family’s Bodhisattva temple “Eijoji,” where Toson’s hair and nails are buried along with his wife Fuyuko and their three daughters who died young. This temple also appears in “Before the Dawn” under the name Manpukuji. The temple operates as an inn where visitors can experience zazen meditation and enjoy shojin cuisine.

Furthermore, facilities are available to learn about the unique culture and systems of Magome village and the Kiso road.

During your stroll, why not stop by a souvenir shop? From handmade crafts to a variety of other souvenir shops, take your time to explore and make sure to pick up a memento of your visit to Magome.

Stay Overnight in Magome and Enjoy All Day Long!

While Magome-juku can be enjoyed as a day trip, why not stay in a guesthouse and immerse yourself in the nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of the Edo period throughout the day?

There are guesthouses with fireplaces that are about 120 years old, ones offering Zen meditation and vegetarian cuisine experiences, and others popular with international tourists that evoke a sense of the past.

Whether you are traveling alone or in a group, there are a variety of inns to accommodate your stay. For more details on each guesthouse, please check the official website.